9 Types Of Insulation & Which Is Best For Your Home In 2022 (2024)
Today we’re talking about a vital component to our home’s performance—insulation! It keeps our homes warm in the winter, cool in the summer, and can help improve our home’s energy efficiency.
When you start to look into it, there’s so much more to insulation than just being the pink stuff we see between each stud in the wall. There are a dozen different types of insulation you can use in your home, and they all have their advantages, disadvantages, and installation techniques. But the end result is all the same: keep outside air out and inside air in.
Insulation Basics
Insulation is also a fundamental element in any home trying to reduce energy consumption. 90% of single residences in the U.S. do not have adequate insulation. This is not surprising considering not all insulation products are created equal. Different types of insulation exist for various purposes, but using the wrong type can lead to wasted time and money. When done correctly, the EPA estimates homeowners can save a minimum of 15 percent on their total energy bills. For a typical homeowners these amounts amount to nearly $200 a year!
Now before you learn any more about insulation, you’ll want to understand what R-value means. In simple terms, R-value is the capacity in which insulation can resist heat coming through. So, the higher the R-value, the more insulating power it has. R-value does not necessarily mean its thickness, but just how well that insulation can keep out heat flow, and it helps determine how much insulation you need for any given amount of space.
Spray Foam Insulation
Most homeowners are familiar withspray foam insulation. It’s likely in your attic, crawl space, or around any door frames, especially in older homes where gaps and leaks have formed. Gaps and leaks are an excellent use case forspray foam insulation. It is intended to help add insulation in hard-to-reach areas of existing insulation or to seal leaks or gaps in areas at risk of air leaks.
It’s made of liquid polyurethane which is sprayed into the wall cavity or intended space, and after it spreads out in its foam state, it hardens and seals that area. It comes in two different forms, open cell and closed cell, which is important because they actually have different R-values. Open-cell foam is lighter and has an R-value of just 3.7 per inch, while closed-cell foam is much denser with an R-value of 6.2 per inch. Either one will work great to boost the R-value of your existing insulation and especially works great for those smaller areas you wish to seal quickly and easily.
Keep in mind that spraying larger areas with spray foam insulation requires the assistance of a professional. The larger the area, the more high-pressure spray you may need, making it more difficult to aim and get the insulation in the right place. To avoid a big mess and any screw-ups, call a professional insulation team.
Foam board insulation is the stiff foam boards that are installed between studs in unfinished walls. Particularly, this would be installed in your foundation or basem*nt walls and any floors or ceilings when they’re built. This type of insulation is essential to limiting heat conduction throughout your home’s structure.
Foam board insulation is offered in multiple varieties, but the most common are Expanded Polystyrene (EPS), Extruded Polystyrene, and Polyiso (Polyisocyanurate).
Expanded Polystyrene (EPS)
EPS is the cheapest type of foam board and is actually the same material as your disposable coffee cup. With an R-value of 4, EPS can be a cost effective option of insulating your home.
Extruded Polystyrene
Odds are, you have worked with this type of insulation before. Extruded Polystyrene is the rigid pink or blue panels that you’ll find at Home Depot and Menards. With an R-value of 5, Extruded Polystyrene is a great choice for insulating the foundation of your home.
Polyiso (Polyisocyanurate)
If you are looking for the heavy duty stuff, this is it. Polyiso is a very dense and expensive foam board with an R-value of 6. Available in a variety of thicknesses and sometimes foil-facing, Polyiso is a premium insulation for attic spaces and house sheathing underneath siding.
Regardless of the type you go with, they are all easily installed by cutting into appropriately sized sections to fit into the floor, ceiling, or wall needing insulating. Often times, they come in a standard size which can make it large projects easier. In general, foam board insulation can also be added to increase R-value in unvented attic spaces or anywhere you think is drafty or requires a bit more help. With an R-value ranging from 4 to 6.5 per inch, it works very well at reducing energy consumption in your home, and you’ll probably see lower bills when you replace your insulation.
Reflective Insulation
Reflective or radiant barrier insulation works a little differently and isn’t actually measured by R-values. Best for hotter climates, reflective insulation works by, you guessed it, reflecting heat away from your home. It does this by using a reflective or radiant barrier (typically a type of aluminum foil), to bounce any direct heat away. It is very DIY-friendly and installed between the joists and beams in the attic, where most of that heat enters your home. While reflective insulation is one of the easiest to install yourself, it is limited to use in warmer climates as it has minimal thermal insulating qualities.
Blanket batts and rolls are quite similar to foam boards, but they are made of fiberglass and are much more flexible than rigid foam boards. It’s probably one of the most common DIY-friendly and affordable options for homeowners. However, the one key thing to note is the fiberglass is highly irritant to skin, eyes, and lungs. Protective gear like masks, goggles, and gloves must be worn if you ever install or even touch the fiberglass batts.
The R-value of blanket insulation is around 2.9 to 3.8 per inch of thickness, but higher quality and denser fiberglass rolls can be purchased to up the R-value to nearly 4.5 per inch. It’s imperative to cut blanket batts to fit between the studs when you’re installing. Attempting to squeeze it into an area can actually significantly affect its R-value and insulation performance.
Loose-Fill Insulation
Loose-fill insulation is one of the most popular types, and you’ve probably seen it in many homes. It has a low R-value at just 0.44 per inch, but that doesn’t mean you should discount it. Loose-fill works to insulate by blocking air from reaching outside or escaping inside your home — simply put, this type of insulation is great at sealing leaks and cracks.
The loose-fill material can be blown into spaces like attics, windowsills, or even your walls with a handheld blower you purchase separately. It’s easy to install this on your own, and it works best in hard-to-reach places where the foam board wouldn’t fit well without having to cut it.
Fiber Insulation
Fiber insulation is a type of loose-fill that’s made from recycled materials like wool, wood fibers, or cotton. The R-value for fiberboard insulation is 0.79 to 0.99 per inch, and it can work great in attics where the airflow isn’t quite as high because of its density, so it fills up the desired space much more than other types.
The only thing to consider with this type of insulation is the installation — it needs to be stuffed into cavity walls or window/door frames, which can be difficult and time-consuming for a novice homeowner. However, if you have the patience and expertise, then fiber insulation could work great in your home!
Concrete Block Insulation
Concrete block insulation is a newer type of home energy-saving material that’s gaining popularity. It works by filling the air gaps between between foam insulation as you stack them up on top of each other. While concrete block insulation. is effective, it can be difficult to install and requires professional help when installing in windows or doors because not all window frames have enough space for both boards.
Structural Insulation
Structural insulation is the best option when you want to insulate your walls and floors. It’s also referred to as “in-wall” or “in-floor” insulation because it lays between studs, joists, rafters, and other framing members of a structure that create an interior wall or floor space — this type can be installed by a professional or yourself.
This type of insulation comes in different thicknesses and is made from materials like polystyrene, XPS foam boards, rock wool insulating batts, mineral batting (made from recycled glass), cellulose fiberboard bats, etc., so it’s versatile and easy to work with when installing.
Blown-In Insulation
Blown-in insulation is one of the most common types, and it’s a good choice if you’re looking for a DIY-friendly insulation project. It can be done with or without professional help, depending on what type of equipment you have available to install.
This type works by blowing fiberglass fibers between walls or floors in spaces where there are gaps or holes that need to be filled. It’s important to wear a mask and gloves when installing this type of insulation because fiberglass can have toxic fumes if it isn’t installed correctly, and you should never use an open flame on blown-in insulation — which could produce deadly carbon monoxide gas.
What is the Best Type of Insulation for Your Home?
Your home’s insulation and its overall performance go hand in hand. Without proper insulation, you could see drastic fluctuations in your energy bills, push your HVAC system to work harder (which can reduce its life), and prevent you from maintaining a comfortable temperature in your own home.
Now you might be wondering, which type is best for your home. The unfortunate truth is it depends. Often times, a properly insulated home will utilize multiple types of insulation. The good news is, you can always call in an expert to find the best solution for your home.
At First American Roofing, we strive to improve our customer’s home performance by looking at the home as a whole working system, with insulation being just a small part of that. To get a whole home analysis to find a solution to your insulation issues,contact us here!
Closed cell spray-foam insulation is the most energy efficient wall insulation. Applications can reach much higher R-values for each inch of thickness than other insulation products, with values as high as R-6.2 per square inch (roughly R-34 on a 2×6 wall).
Expanded polystyrene (EPS) is a premier material for protecting homes, foods and sensitive materials because of its cost-effective, efficient insulation qualities. In fact, EPS leads the pack when it comes to R-value per dollar.
The type of insulation with the highest R-Values, with a few exceptions, is rigid foam or panel insulation. Also called “foam board” or “continuous” insulation. Most varieties of this type of insulation consist of expanded foam sandwiched between two rigid panels.
They provide good thermal resistance (up to 2 times greater than most other insulating materials of the same thickness), and reduce heat conduction through structural elements, like wood and steel studs.
As for attic vs. wall insulation, always go for the attic. The largest pay back will be seen here. You would stop heat loss from natural convection and block solar gain (an increase in heat) in the attic, which can result in energy savings of 30 to 50 percent.
The cost to insulate a 1,200 sq. ft. home averages $1,980 to $16,500. These costs are for the full range of options when insulating a home of this size.
Depending on where you live and the part of your home you're insulating (walls, crawlspace, attic, etc.), you'll need a different R-Value. Typical recommendations for exterior walls are R-13 to R-23, while R-30, R-38 and R-49 are common for ceilings and attic spaces.
If you are deciding between insulating the roof deck or the ceiling, Insulating your ceiling should be the priority. Not only is it easier but ceiling insulation is beneficial in a number of ways: Keeps the temperature in the building regulated. Saves on energy costs.
rolled insulation is a much more efficient process. Blown insulation does require a machine to be used, but a machine and some workers are easier to manage when you compare the rolled insulation process.
Internal wall insulation is done by fitting rigid insulation boards to the wall, or by building a stud wall filled in with insulation material such as mineral wool fibre. Internal insulation: Is generally cheaper to install than external wall insulation.
Wool, dry air, plastics, and polystyrene foam are all examples of good insulators. Materials that do not insulate well are called conductors. Conductors have loose bonds that allow particles to move easily and transfer energy from one particle to the next.
It is possible to over-insulate your house so much that it can't breathe. The whole point of home insulation is to tightly seal your home's interior. But if it becomes too tightly sealed with too many layers of insulation, moisture can get trapped inside those layers. That's when mold starts to grow.
Fiberglass is the most common type of insulation used for residences because it is by far the best, particularly for hot climates. Here's why: Fire-retardant – Fiberglass insulation is fire-retardant, making it an ideal choice for homes in dry climates and areas prone to fire.
Fiberglass batts are the cheapest, easiest way to insulate new walls. However, they're often installed poorly—and even small gaps can reduce efficiency as much as 25 percent.
This is a safe first step to retaining heat and saving energy. Any gaps or cracks that allow warm air to travel through the ceiling into the attic or rafters need to be sealed using an appropriate sealant (caulk, weatherstripping, fireproof foam sealant, etc.).
The floor wins every time. Insulating the floor is standard practice for an unfinished attic space. The exception to this rule takes place when families opt to convert an unfinished attic space into something usable or livable.
Generally speaking, you only need to insulate the ground floor. If you're on an upper floor, you don't usually need to insulate your floor space. However, you should consider insulating any floors that are above unheated spaces such as garages, as you could be losing a lot of heat through those.
Insulation sells all year round, but now that you know why Fall is the best time, you can keep an eye out for sale prices on insulation, and then install it when you and the weather are ready.
If you see the benefit of insulating your new construction home correctly from the start for long-term comfort, energy savings month after month, and fewer headaches while you live in the house, then spray foam insulation may very well be worth the extra cost to you.
Unless damaged, it can last 80 to 100 years in most houses before it needs to be replaced. However, insulation can start falling from fiberglass batts after 15 to 20 years, so if your insulation was installed in batts well over a decade ago, it might be time for an inspection or a home energy audit.
The small areas around doors and windows are great small projects for DIY foam insulation. The experienced homeowner could avoid a contractor's minimum charge by doing these small spaces themselves. You can buy the kit at your local home improvement store and get the job done on your own time.
The most common health risk of fiberglass insulation is skin irritation. This occurs when your skin gets in contact with fiberglass particles, resulting in itchiness and skin rashes. Particles may come in contact with your skin and trigger allergies, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Coarse fibers and dust from mineral wool products can cause emporary and reversible irritation (itching, redness) of the skin and eyes. The itching and possible inflammation are a mechanical reaction to dust and coarse fibers (more than about 5 μm in diameter) and are not damaging in the way chemical irritants may be.
Vacuum insulated panels have the highest R-value, approximately R-45 (in U.S. units) per inch; aerogel has the next highest R-value (about R-10 to R-30 per inch), followed by polyurethane (PUR) and phenolic foam insulations with R-7 per inch.
Most homes with hardwood flooring use underlayment to add a layer of insulation between the subfloor and floor. So, materials that act as insulators, namely rigid foam, polyfoam, silicone, fiberglass, or rubber are used to keep the surface from getting cold in winter.
If you check with the North American Insulation Manufacturers Association, they'll assure you that fiberglass or mineral wool is definitely your best choice for attic insulation.
Insulated interior walls will prevent large temperature swings that can crack drywall. These insulated rooms will also hold their temperature longer. For rooms that aren't used frequently, like guest rooms or storage rooms, interior wall insulation can reduce heat transfer and help you save on your utility bill.
Insulation levels are specified by R-Value. R-Value is a measure of insulation's ability to resist heat flow. The higher the R-Value, the better the thermal performance of the insulation. The recommended level for most attics is to insulate to R-38 or about 10 to 14 inches, depending on insulation type.
At 3.5 per inch of material, the R-value of blown-in cellulose is 23% better per inch than fiberglass batts! According to research done at the Oak Ridge National Lab, fiberglass loses up to 50% of its R-value in very cold conditions; making cellulose a better choice for homes in northern climates.
Do I Have To Remove Old Insulation? Unless your insulation is wet, moldy or infested with pests, you don't need to remove it before adding insulation on top of it. ENERGY STAR® recommends that you inspect your insulation for signs of mold, mildew, moisture and pest infiltration before making this determination.
Heat passes through solid material at a faster speed than through a gap or 'cavity' – so solid walls lose heat fast. In fact, an estimated 45% of your home's heat could be lost through solid walls, according to the Energy Saving Trust. Solid wall insulation can make your home much warmer and save money on energy bills.
From a functional point of view, external insulation can achieve higher levels of insulation with little risk of moisture problems either internally or within the wall structure, assuming it is correctly installed. It also maintains the thermal mass of the building by keeping the masonry within the insulation envelope.
Unless damage occurs to it, all blown-in types of cavity wall insulation should last for up to a century. For other insulation methods used during the construction process, the numbers should be similar, lasting up to a hundred years.
Materials such as plastic are bad conductors of electricity. They do not allow electricity to flow through them. A plastic covering is wrapped around electrical wires, to protect us from electric shocks.
You are likely to be eligible for 100% funding for insulation grants if you or anybody in your home are in receipt of one or more of the following benefits: Armed forces independence payment. Attendance allowance. Carer's allowance.
When it comes to which is best in the spray foam insulation vs. fiberglass debate, spray foam wins, hands down. If you're a DIY-er, you may be used to installing fiberglass insulation. But if you're looking for something that will last a lifetime, let a professional install spray foam.
Unfortunately, too much insulation and a tightly-sealed house can lead to moisture concerns. Any dampness may develop in the growth of mold or mildew. The production of mold or mildew can reduce indoor air quality and greatly affect your respiratory health.
It's possible to over-insulate an attic as too much will cause moisture buildup and eventually result in mold. Eventually, adding more insulation leads to diminishing returns in trapping heat as well.
It's worth insulating an old house because it'll help you save on electricity bills down the road. A home without insulation drains the heating and cooling elements of power, making them work overtime. By adding insulation, you'll prevent your home from leaking air and energy.
Vacuum insulated panels have the highest R-value, approximately R-45 (in U.S. units) per inch; aerogel has the next highest R-value (about R-10 to R-30 per inch), followed by polyurethane (PUR) and phenolic foam insulations with R-7 per inch.
Although more expensive than rolls, they offer good thermal values at half the thickness. Also, you can easily store items directly on top of them. They can be cut to size using a saw so that they fit snugly between joists or rafters while holes can be drilled around light fittings.
You can simply use a foil for insulation as a cost-effective alternative. By stapling the foil sheets to your attic, the heat reflects down into your living space. Hence, it lowers your heating costs. Attic Insulation Installation Services in Lincolnwood provide satisfactory assistance and properly insulates your home.
Thermablok® Aerogel is a revolutionary advancement in thermal technology offering the thinnest insulation available to prevent thermal and cold bridging. Classed as a Super Insulation, Aerogel has the highest insulation value of any known material with the lowest thermal conductivity value of any solid (0.015W/mK).
It should normally be at least 60mm thick, and can be up to 100mmm. The actual thickness required will depend on the material used - Insulation boards are fixed straight onto the wall using continuous ribbons of plaster or adhesive.
The thermal barrier of a home should consist of a continuous layer of insulation on all sides—including the lowest floor, the exterior walls, and the ceiling or roof. Doubling the thickness of insulation will double the insulation's R-value, cutting heat loss in half.
Depending on where you live and the part of your home you're insulating (walls, crawlspace, attic, etc.), you'll need a different R-Value. Typical recommendations for exterior walls are R-13 to R-23, while R-30, R-38 and R-49 are common for ceilings and attic spaces.
The best kind of rigid foam insulation is polyisocyanurate, also known as polyiso. It has the highest R-rating of any rigid foam insulation and comes with a reflective foil on both sides, allowing it to act as a radiant barrier as well.
If you check with the North American Insulation Manufacturers Association, they'll assure you that fiberglass or mineral wool is definitely your best choice for attic insulation.
It's not as cost-effective without solar panels, but a gas boiler is still the cheapest way to heat your home – though that's set to change soon, with the cost of gas rising more than twice as quickly as electricity.
The ideal thermostat temperature in the winter is 68 degrees Fahrenheit when you're at home. Energy.gov suggests that 68 degrees is a good room temperature while you're awake at home but recommends lowering it while you're asleep or away.
Insulation sells all year round, but now that you know why Fall is the best time, you can keep an eye out for sale prices on insulation, and then install it when you and the weather are ready.
The best insulation for an older home that has a lot of drafts is going to be a material that creates an air seal. Spray foam and injection foam are the best options when it comes to making your home energy efficient and comfortable.
The floor wins every time. Insulating the floor is standard practice for an unfinished attic space. The exception to this rule takes place when families opt to convert an unfinished attic space into something usable or livable.
Introduction: My name is Edwin Metz, I am a fair, energetic, helpful, brave, outstanding, nice, helpful person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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